We sailed up the west coast of Ambrym in smoke and haze, motoring with the wind at 6kt. It was a little rolly here once we anchored. We saw several people walking along the black sand beach stretched before us and decided to take the dinghy to shore, hoping to do a little laundry in the river. Ambrym is known as the black island because of it’s volcanic soils from still-active volcanoes and the link between magic and volcanoes, making it the sorcery center for Vanuatu. The air was hard to breathe and the water was scorchingly hot leaving a sulfer smell on my clothes. We tried to float in the river but it was way too hot for Jim and me although Karen and Jason managed to brave the temps for a few minutes.
We met a lovely ni-Vanu family and Emma took Karen and me on a tidepool hunt for edible creatures. Emma showed us wild duck eggs she found under a bush and took us into a cave lined with soft grasses where one could spend the night when it rains. The flies were relentless and eventually drove us back to our boats for the night.